Vuitton surrenders men’s wardrobe in a parade at the Musée d’Orsay

MARIA de Valderrama PARIS, March 7 The Musée d’Orsay exhibition became the main stage for Louis Vuitton on Monday, as the Parisian company presented a winter collection devoid of tradition and transcending the menswear and women’s fashion codes. Vuitton, at the hands of its creative director, Frenchman Nicolas Ghesquière, borrowed tailored jackets, ties, and suits from men’s wardrobe for Fall/Winter 2022/2023, with the keynote being ultra-wide silhouettes and relaxed cuts. Convenience reigned from accessories, with original toeless moccasins and bags, to laden apparel with men’s T-shirts, sports polo shirts, and knitted jackets. The show opened with an ’80s leather jacket and men’s baggy pants, while an embellished embroidered bow tie added a pop of color to the design. As a backdrop, the Musée d’Orsay is world-renowned for containing the great works of Impressionism and occupying the old railway station building constructed for the 1900 World’s Fair. Actresses such as Julianne Moore, Catherine Deneuve and Alicia Vikander, and influencers and celebrities such as Alexa Chung or Chiara Ferragni, all wear company clothes. From head to toe. ODE TO YOUTH Louis Vuitton dedicated this collection to the youth, in an ode to symbols of adolescence, such as the wide striped polo shirts and American sweaters, and also coats, in a nod to British universities. Other traditional styles that were excluded from the game are sportswear: track pants are now worn with a jacket, moccasin slippers and mini-skirts with sneakers, which accompanies the tailoring style as well as an evening dress. A long adherence to wide and plaid pants opened the rally, followed by dresses that were dressed in overalls with pockets on the sides and over the shirt and tie. These dresses, cut to the middle of the calf, were proposed in a more “boho” style, with high leather boots and woolen jackets, or combined with jackets as a coat. Black and brown were the champions in terms of color, although Vuitton allowed some bohemian touches, with yellow, blue or red. Ghesquière spent years experimenting with the company’s accessories, especially shoes. If the previous season created a new version of the stiletto shoes, in which the toes protrude, now it is the turn of the moccasin. They also highlighted some sneakers with high heels, canvas shoes, “All Stars” type and open leather shoes such as jelly shoes. On this penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week, when war between Ukraine and Russia and gestures of solidarity toward Ukraine were the norm, Ghesquière refrained from commenting on the war, though ironically, that his last “look” was a hippie dress under a blue polo shirt. Yellow is the colors of the Ukrainian flag. A style of vindication very typical in the industry has been followed by others such as Isabel Marant, who also went out last Thursday to greet her guests in a sweatshirt of these colors. Vuitton, as an integral part of the LVMH group, has closed its stores in Russia, bolstering its laws to punish freedom of the press and has seen the value of the ruble plummet after sanctions imposed by the European Union, the United States and Canada. and other countries. EFE mdv / mgr / acm (image)